Pacific Crossing 2019 - Panama to Marquesas - Passage Log

Wilderness Lat+08.909700 Lon-079.524100
GPS test


Wilderness Lat 08.484216 Lon-079.943450 

Day 0
Vista Mar - Boat and crew getting ready to Jump!


Wilderness Lat 06.577850 Lon-081.010583

Day 0
Amazing first day. Perfect timing with Spinnaker and then 2nd reef before sunset, sea state perfect! Saw our second red tide by day. By night, no moon - bioluminescence in our wake looks like something out of start trek. Doing 10 kts some dolphins came to play and they lit up as well.


Wilderness Lat 05.184033 Lon-082.766616

Day 1
Slow day sail in light 10 kt winds. We left the 2nd reef in as stronger wind was forecast. a good decision as after sunset the winds picked up to 20 gusts to 28kts.
Wave direction and pitch still good, but increased height and spacing. Lots of stars visible by night.


Wilderness Lat 04.284250 Lon-084.812033

Day 2
Freezer switched off due to low voltage, ran the engine to top up the battery solved the problem. Autopilot must be working hard. Need Ice from the Freezer to keep the fruit cool - otherwise it doesn't last long at all in the heat. Good progress by day 18 kt NE winds falling to 10 kts by evening. We left the 2nd reef in, now (morning 8-Mar) on spinnaker in 8-14 kts ENE.


Wilderness Lat 03.488633 Lon-086.405133

Day 3
Made a cake for international women day (all gone now), spotted a tiny bit of moon at night, also a shooting star. Spinnaker up at sunrise 9-Mar, E 6kts tws.


Wilderness Lat 02.689466 Lon-087.563950

Day 4
No wind, drifting on 2kts current. A Sea bird has joined the crew, and likes keeping watch from the bow sprit and inspecting lines and sails.


Wilderness Lat 02.383316 Lon-089.234333

Day 5
We only had 2-4 kts true wind speed, the spinnaker barely lifted. Fortunately we are in a 2kt ENE setting current, so we spent the day dreaming of a 5kt breeze as we drifted along, we watched a sea turtle overtake us in the current.

Heard a whale during night watch, but could not see anything or pick it up on radar.

Our crew Messy Featherhead tried out lots of different positions on the boat. She stayed another night and went fishing this morning. We were busy cleaning up after her, hope she has found a new boat.


Wilderness 02 20.42N 091 19.16W

Day 6
Dream came true. Winds have picked up, with 10 kts true we managed to make 6
kts GPS using Code 0 / spinnaker. Spinnaker up overnight.


Wilderness 02 12.00N 093 01.00W

Day 7
We had the Code 0 up for over 24hrs. TWS 5-8 kts SE. Still with a 1-2kt NW setting current.
Drifted for around 2 hours when the wind speed dropped to 2kts. At night the wind changed again 2 W. Going North West felt wrong and South West would put us in the ley of the Galapagos, so we motored for 5 hrs.

Stars/Constellations/Planets are still fantastic. There was an outstandingly bright star in the East two hours before sunrise. I think it was Uranus; it was very bright in any case.
Swapped code0 for G2 spinnaker just before sunrise and spotted a new crew member - Messy Featherhead #2 - standing a night watch on the coachroof.


Wilderness 01 41.55N 095 04.04W

Day 8
Good winds (8-12kts TWS) and good progress. We are loving our spinnaker, it's been up for 24 hours and in these conditions doubles our boat speed compared to standard white sails. In case you are wondering - we lower the spinnaker and raise it again every 12 hours to check for chafe.

These long passages really help you get to know your boats characteristics. We found our spinnaker could go much closer to the wind than we thought, even up to 60deg apparent, and that between 70-60 degrees apparent - before the spinnaker collapses - we get an extra pull. We can feel this sensation through the boat. It is like the power band on a bike, or a Turbo engine.


Wilderness 01 01.39N 096 24.25W

Day 9
We have SE 5.5 KTS TWS. This is just enough. We can make 4 kts GPS - almost the same a running an engine.

We may seem less enthusiastic about light wind days, but this is not the case.
Open ocean high pressure days like this are not a problem for us. While it's nice to blast along at double digit speeds, this kind of sailing is really more suitable for shorter hops.
There is aboard enough power/food/water/diesel and entertainment, so in calm conditions we find that being at sea for extra days or even weeks is a comfortable and relaxing experience.


Wilderness 00 57.16S 097 05.10W

Day 10
Hello from South of the equator! We achieved a major sailing milestone, as we crossed the equator at sunset. Spotted a giant (2m) sea turtle as we sailed passed by within 3m. Not sure where she was headed, but she is 350nm away from Galapagos islands. We planned to be heading more SW, but on receiving updated weather, we found a huge area of high pressure tracking right over where we wanted to sail.
Our plan is to make the most of the wind we have and head directly South for the SE trades. We anticipate either motoring for 36hrs to get through the ITCZ or to drift and wait for wind.


Wilderness 02 35.57S 069 55.19W

Day 11
NE 8kts. Still heading South. We're both anxious about the next 24hrs, as we approach the edge of the ITCZ. The winds have held for much longer than we imagined, and we have made it another 24 hrs with the spinnaker up.

By night we spotted some eerie glow on the horizon, nothing on radar or AIS. The lights made the darkness on the horizon look even darker, but they were not squalls. Out here it feels like the world could end and we'd never know. The glow turned out to be a fishing fleet.

The moon is getting really big and bright. It's great to have her company to share the night watch.

For the last several days three birds have followed us. We think Wilderness scares the fish for them to catch, either this or they just like flying in the pressure wave of our sails, glad they're not overnighting as Messy Featherhead did.


Wilderness 02 35.57S 096 55.19W
Position correction for Wilderness


Wilderness 03 29.25S 097 41.30W

Day 12
We have entered the ITCZ. It is quite spectacular being caught up in high pressure. Apart from the chance of squalls or lightning, we are safe. Sunrise and sunset are particularly special. Fung even caught a glimpse of the green flash, although I still have not seen it.

If we follow the rhum line to our destination, we will stay in the ITCZ much longer. So we will try to find the shortest route through to the SE trade winds. We will alternately motor, and drift, our way through. Surprisingly, are able to use the spinnaker more than we thought. A favourable sustained breeze above 4kts is all we need and then we can deploy the sail in under 3 minutes.

We made the best of our time by going for a swim. We cleaned the props of barnacles, cleaned the bottoms, and replaced our anodes - we found the smaller hub anodes for our Volvo 3 blade furling props were completely gone, they were half worn when we left Panama.

By night we discovered a new danger - whales. The waters in the equator are warm and calm, and they are the nursing grounds for whales - especially humpbacks. By choosing to drift we are less visible to them, and so at night a pod surfaced to either side of us. We could hear them spray there blowholes and see the water plumes, but we could not see them - except on radar - they were close! Pretty scary as they have the potential to make short work of the boat. As they are not lit at night there is almost 0 chance of seeing them, unless maybe they are extremely close and lit by bioluminescence. With a motor running they are smart enough to avoid you.


Wilderness 04 46.10S 099 13.39W

Day 13
Updated weather showed a 24 hr window to reach the trades, after this they would move further away for several days. We planned to motor South 24hrs.

With a calm sea state we toped up the diesel tanks with our jerry cans, and put new wind tells on our main.

After only five hours on engines we could see a front ahead. Winds increased S 6kts TWS. We put up the code 0, turned SouthWest and made the most of the winds then SSE 10kts, then 15kts. But these were not steady trades but squalls on the edge of the ITCZ..

We dropped the code 0, when we felt the squalls were getting too close. By evening we found the trades, but we were still dodging squalls by radar. The squalls have now stopped but we are getting waves on the beam.


Wilderness 05 22.03S 102 13.58W

Day 14
Updated weather confirms that we are through ITCZ and in the SE trades. SE 12Kts TWS.

Spinnaker up all day and night, but we took it down at 03:00 hrs when the winds built to 18kts. We saw 12kts GPS at this point.

We do not feel like stressing out kit, and were concerned the winds might pick up. Winds returned to 12kts soon as we lowered the spinnaker. Thankful we had a full moon all night.

Over 170 nm logged, with 2180 nm to go. With a 150 nm average day we could reach our destination in 15 days.

Thinking of family back home today.


Wilderness 06 02.40S 105 42.46W

Day 15
Made good progress sailing in SE trade winds. We are still seeing squalls at night so have left the spinnaker alone. We are sailing on a beam reach averaging 7kts gps with 2nd reef and solent. The moon is still like a giant bright torch guiding during night watches and gives us much comfort. 

Thinking of friends who have been following our sailing journey, giving us moral/spiritual support. We are especially grateful for the prayers from our Christian friends as they give us courage when we are in trouble. We have come so far in part due to the invaluable knowledge and advice shared by our sailing friends. We hope to follow their example for new cruisers.


Wilderness 06 29.29S 108 07.08W

Day 16
12-17kts tws SSE, averaging 7 kts with 2nd reef and solent.
Bearing to Marquesas is 260T. On this latitude there is only about 4 nm difference between following this bearing and a great circle route.

Last night there were no squalls, but the winds did pick up and briefly took the boat speed up to 10kts.
Waves occasionally slap the side of the boat. We could see lightning flashes, but heard no thunder.

We still have a bright moon for company. As the moon came up from the horizon it was bright orange, and looked like a second Sun.

This morning we are passed the half way point, and are now closer to Marquesas than to Panama.


Wilderness 06 51.47S 110 41.27W

Day 17
11-14 SSE TWS making 8s and 9s GPS, Sailing a beam reach with Code 0, and 2nd reef main.

Due to a change in the wave direction we had a return to much more comfortable sailing. Although the winds dropped, with the code up we were sailing much faster than before. The speed may have helped with the waves.

At sunset we still had 15-16 SE TWS, but we felt more comfortable taking down the code as the winds usually pick up in the evenings. We saw a couple of gusts to 20 kts, so we are glad we took the sail down.

We have not tried to fish yet, but each morning we seem to catch flying fish and squid on our trampoline. Messy Featherhead would be delighted to see her watch rewarded. Hmm... thinking about this, we never found any fish on deck when we had birds on the boat.


Wilderness 07 16.21S 113 21.02W

Day 18
Good progress. SSE 14-16kts tws, Code 0 and 2nd reef, took the code down before sunset. Avg 7kts gps.

Honeymoon sailing is over. Trades are more southerly than expected, and at night when they build to 15-20kts, they make the waves come from the side. There is some slamming, but mainly it is a bouncy uncomfortable motion to live with for over 5 days.

Starting to keep an eye on the distance to destination Marquesas , and watching this number slowly falling day by day.

Now 19 days at sea, overtaking our previously longest passage - 17 days Atlantic crossing with Cornell's Odyssey rally in Jan 2018. Cape Verde - Barbados


Boats within 2500nm from 07 44.13S 115 45.10W GPX


Wilderness 07 44.13S 115 45.10W

Day 19
Wind 20-24 SSE by day - 20-24 ESE by night - caught a few squalls and saw up to 30. Full solent, 2nd reef in main, this is good up to 31kts.

We have not changed our sail plan for days. Extra main makes the boat less balanced. This puts strain on the autopilot and the extra sail area does little for our boat speed.

At the wind angles we have the code 0 works great - but the winds speeds are just a little too high for that sail. So lighter winds 10-15 are both faster and more comfortably.

It is not the wind but the waves that are the major factor for us. Waves from the side are not the most comfortable, our speed and direction helps a little. The latest forecast shows we will only have waves setting more Westerly in 4 days time.

Good boat wash from squalls last night and this morning.

Our sea legs look and feel slighter than normal so our plan for today includes a challenging gym workout.


Wilderness 08 07.42S 118 45.36W

Day 20
24-28 SE 5m waves. Good progress - now seriously starting to count down.


Wilderness 08 28.23S 120 47.16W

Day 21
Just over 1000nm to go. This may not seem far, but try driving your car at 7nm an hour.


Wilderness 08 46.15S 122 35.37W

Day 22
Sunrise: being on the boat in the middle of nowhere on the way to Marquesas what a joyful feeling!

Last night winds dropped below 10kts and shifted to the East. Waited all through the night to put up the spinnaker at first light. The waves also calmed down, and changed direction in line with the shift in the wind. Got the latest weather as ours was five days old. Hoping for light winds to put the spinnaker up, but the wind has picked up again 14-18 ENE - GFS model agrees. , so still on Solent + 2nd reef. Slow progress.

Weather feels just like England. It's cool, clouds have filled in all around us, and it has started raining, so the spinnaker will remain in the locker today.


Wilderness 09 10.43S 125 07.00W

Day 23
With light Easterly winds we put the spinnaker up 2 hours before sunset. This worked well but we lost our nerve when the winds briefly picked up to18kts. We put the sail away in darkness, the minute we did the winds dropped to 8kts. We didn't have any more energy to mess around with the sail so we just left it in the locker. Good job we did, a couple of hours later the winds picked up to over 20 kts. Progress is slow though.


Wilderness 09 27.01S 127 07.55W

Day 24
All is well.


Wilderness 09 29.06S 128 46.18W

Day 25
Spinnaker up all day. We had 12-18kts SE winds, that became 8-12 ESE in the afternoon. We couldn't follow our course as we still can't sail well at 170-180T, but we can sail with the spinnaker reasonably well at 160T. In the morning headed slightly further South, and then gybed when the wind changed.
This was indicated in four weather routing models from Predict Wind, but not the wind view as we only get 100km resolution.

Before sunset we entered the small area of high pressure. We could see clear sky above us and clouds surrounding us miles away on the horizon. Perhaps it was the sunset, but the sea appeared to have a purple colour. The wind dropped, the spinnaker collapsed, and we put it away just after sunset. We motored until 4:00, by this time the wind had come back to a steady 10kts and so we relaunched the spinnaker again.


Wilderness 09 33.19S 131 05.33W

Day 26
Very comfortable sail in light wind. Spinnaker up all day and night. Averaging around 5kts straight to Marquesas.

Few clouds at night, so a bright starry sky. Crescent moon rise at around 04:00 (boat time).
We set our clock -1hr every 15deg sailed to keep ourselves adjusted to the local time zone.


Wilderness 09 34.57S 133 02.44W

Day 27
Pleasant sail with spinnaker all day and night. Good progress SE 10-15kts tws, average GPS 6kts - occasionally touched 8kts.

Honeymoon sailing is back. We still keep watch, but heading downwind with no significant waves, we can get some proper rest.

With all the bouncing, banging and uncomfortable sea state that we saw earlier in the passage, we thought we might be zombies by the time we arrived in Marquesas.


Wilderness 09 48.32S 135 46.31W

Day 28
Still pleasant sail with spinnaker all day and night. Good progress, SE
10-15kts TWS, average GPS 6kts.

There was an incident when pulling up the spinnaker soc for our daily chafe check. As the pressure filled the sail, the soc control line caught and pulled up the soc along with the control line. There was no way to raise or lower the spinnaker soc. Instead of dropping the spinnaker, Charles waved the boat hook around while hopping up and down like an Easter bunny.
Eventually he caught the line and was able to free it.

We are now two days out. We should arrive in Hiva Oa, Atuona on Friday.


Wilderness 09 57.11S 137 51.43W

Day 29
10-12kts ESE and then E, sailing with spinnaker only, 5-6kts GPS.
Seas were so comfortable that there was chance for rest and to complete a sewing project.


April 4, 2019 2:51 PM

Day 30 - This is our last check in for this passage.
10-15kts ESE spinnaker only, running DDW with asymmetric spinnaker only,
6-7kts GPS. We are 70nm from Atuona - Hiva Oa and may have to slow down so that we arrive at first light on the 5th of April.

We are both eagerly anticipating French Polynesia, and aim to enjoy it here for as long as possible. It's is an absolute dream for us to sail here. These South Pacific volcanic islands rising high up out of the sea, with waterfalls, and tropical vegetation capture the imagination like no other destination.

It was ambitious to announce our plan to cross the Pacific. To make it here we have surprised even ourselves.
Passage from Panama, Vista Mar to Marquesas, Hiva Oa
Passage from Panama, Vista Mar to Marquesas, Hiva Oa

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